Wednesday 20 June 2012

MAKE A GIRLS/TEEN JERSEY FASHION TOP

Disclaimer PLEASE NOTE this tutorial is for PERSONAL use only & as such you are very welcome to use it to make personal items or gifts, but it is NOT to be used for resale in any form.

All rights reserved for this pattern to myself.
Copy Right for any downloaded images will be held at source & taken at your own risk.
Okay, now that the covering my bum bit is out of the way, here we go :)   


PLEASE NOTE this tutorial is still under construction, pop back soon for full pattern making instructions


This simple little pattern offers you endless design possibilities & is very current, so any little girl, teen, or fashion conscious woman would be no doubt happy to own one - my own 9 yr old Fashionista certainly is & trust me, when it comes to clothes, she is for my sins  as fussy as they come !!!

Please note front image image obscured for copy right reasons ;-)

Measure the person that the top will be for as so (image to follow soon) 

  1. Right across the body at shoulder point, to the point of the arm you want the sleeve to finish - now add 2cm to the total figure. This one was measured to about 2/3rd of the way down the upper arm.
  2. Measure from the side of the neck to the length you want your top to finish - this one was measured to just below the waist/top hip.
  3. Holding the tape flat, measure across the neck at collar bone point, to get an approximate neck width - don't curve your tape around the neck, this curve will be allowed for in the cutting instructions below.


Find yourself some suitable pattern paper

As design & pattern cutting is my profession, I always have a roll pattern makers "spot & cross" to hand, so that is what I have used here. I have marked out  this pattern on the blank side, so as to hopefully make it easier for you to follow my instructions, besides it's a long time since spot & cross could be trusted to be an accurate measurement tool.

If you don't have spot & cross, any of the following papers can be used as a substitute.
  • Wrapping paper, brown parcel paper is especially good as it is quite durable.
  • Old Newspaper, especially broad sheets.
  • Left over wall paper.
If you need to clue or tape your paper together to make bigger more usable sheets, then I recommend using "magic tape" this is more durable than standard Cellotape, so less likely to disintegrate with age or perhaps ironing your pattern flat.
Prit stick type glues can also be a good alternative if using anything but wallpaper.


You will also need… 
  • A straight edge or long ruler of some sort.
  • Your tape measure or long rule.
  • Some sort of set square, or something that you can use to make sure that your frame is at true right angles.
  • Pencil.
  • Marker or felt tip pens 



Now to Cut Your Pattern

  1. Fold two sheets of your chosen paper as shown in the picture below, making sure they are both quite a bit bigger than the measurements you have taken, use the picture below as a guide for how much bigger.
  2. Once folded, mark out your guide frame - for this use your pencil to mark out a square/oblong using the measurements you have taken from your model on one of your two folded sheets of paper - use your set square to make sure all the right angles are true.
  3. Remember - the width measurement used on paper, will be HALF of the measurement you took across the shoulders/upper arms & neck, length measurements will be as they were.

You are now cutting the FRONT of your top pattern & you now you have your guide frame marked out in pencil. 

Take a coloured felt pen - I've used red here & following the measurements on my diagram you can carefully mark out your pattern shape.

  1. Mark the "side neck" by measuring in from the folded top edge of the paper, by HALF of your neck width measurement & marking a dot on the paper.
  2. Now mark a point at the outer edge of the guide frame 3cm down from the top edge of your guide frame as shown in my diagram - join the side neck point, to this sleeve point by drawing a straight line ending on your guide frame - you now have your shoulder/top sleeve
















You should now have a pattern that when laid out, looks something like this.



Basic Sewing Instructions

The finish of the top is down to you, but how you choose to sew it can also be a design feature. 

For example the garment below below at the bottom of this tutorial has been overlocked in a contrast colour thread, so that the seams show on the OUTSIDE of the garment, the neck, cuffs & hem have been finished in the same way. 

If you don't have an overlocker, you could think about using a contrast binding to get a similar look, but make sure its in jersey & sewn on with a small zig-zag to keep its stretch.


The top shown at the top of the page at the beginning of this tutorial has the hems sewn in the normal way, with neck, cuffs & hem all neatly hemmed with a small zig zag stitch to keep the fabrics stretch.

For this reason I will keep the make-up instructions very simple
  1. Sew the shoulder seams together.
  2. Finish the hem of the neck in the way that you choose.
  3. Sew both of the back & front side seams together.
  4. Finish the hem of the cuffs in the way that you choose.
  5. Finish all around the hem & front tie in the way that you choose.
NOTE - if you are BINDING your neck & armholes, trim 1cm off all around the neck edge then bind the neck BEFORE sewing up the shoulders & bind the armholes BEFORE closing the side seams. This will give a neater, easier to control finish.




Before Sewing, why not take a look at the embellishment tutorials & add a front detail, as shown on the finished garments - you can add applique, a transfer print or more to finish your top.







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